“Cars don’t move how they used to, because of the insecurity,” says Bebe Kasi, a soldier’s wife travelling from Kalemie, on Lake Tanganyika. The Congolese state receives no taxes from this trade but bigwigs on both sides of the border have grown fat on it.War threatens Congo’s natural splendours.

The journey from Bukavu to Goma, on the other end of the lake, is infested with rebels. Nonetheless they pay dearly to live in the metropolis. With Aksel Hennie, Tobias Santelmann, Ine F. Jansen, Dennis Storhøi. Protesting in Kinshasa, the capital of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, in 2016, after President Joseph Kabila refused to step down, violating the constitution. Army commanders, of which Congo has far too many, are bought off with lucrative postings where they can smuggle or extort.The UN provides a hefty monitoring operation and has so far prevented any rebel movement from growing large enough to threaten Mr Kabila. Tributaries of the Congo and the Kasai rivers used to carry palm oil, beer, coffee and other goods from factories to the coast. According to witnesses, militiamen killed her pregnant mother, her three brothers and injured her sister, Racahele-Ngabausi.

It lags far behind even neighbouring Zambia on many indicators of development (see chart).Yet there is more to Congo than misery. But it is a hint of what the people of Congo could produce, given a chance.This article appeared in the Briefing section of the print edition under the headline "Waiting to erupt"Sign up to our free daily newsletter, The Economist todayCongo’s war was bloody. "Around us, we saw corpses everywhere," Mave Grace says. Though the boats occasionally sink (and contain precisely zero safety equipment), they are still far safer. Binding it together is the great river, which flows so hard into the Atlantic that Portuguese sailors in the 16th century could drink fresh water 160km out to sea. Life expectancy is just 58.

Recent history suggests that things could get much bloodier.The great Congo war of 1998-2003 was the most lethal on any continent in most people’s lifetimes. Tame yours with rates as low as 2.42% APR (15yr…Refinance rates at 2.42% APR (15yr).

Share. A new war could spread far beyond Congo’s borders, sucking in neighbours as happened 20 years ago.
Others mutter conspiratorially that the West keeps Congo in chaos so as to extract its minerals.What seems more likely is that Mr Kabila’s authority is draining away and with it the Congolese state’s ability to maintain even a basic monopoly of violence. According to witnesses, militiamen killed her pregnant mother, her three brothers and chopped off part of her sister's arm.

According to a friend, he is indecisive and introspective. Your correspondent travelled on a ship with four classes of travel, from a crowded and sweaty third-class compartment in the hold to a VIP cabin on the roof, occupied by a splendidly regal government minister.The boats thrive because no one wants to travel by road.
Men with cheap head-torches scurry around the surface. Estimates range from 1m to over 5m. Mave Grace's two-year-old sister Rachele-Ngabausi bears a diagonal scar that runs from the bottom of her left cheek, past the inside of her left eye and up to her forehead. Armies and militias seized mines and helped themselves. Much of the trade is controlled by the FDLR, a Hutu militia which grew out of the Congo’s forests contain gorillas, bonobos and chimpanzees, as well as the elusive okapi, which looks as if it is half-giraffe, half-zebra.


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